The Welsh Tourist Board operates a slightly different rating system than elsewhere, but if it were adopted through the rest of the EU might give a better indication of what a guest should expect than the 'tick box' approach of other national standards.

With a focus on food it is not suprising that the hotel has its own walled garden, producing its own produce for the kitchens. Whilst the restaurant does not have a Michelin star, the food quality is suprisingly good, with breakfasts a definate hit. Most of the supplies are sourced locally, and Welsh produce is strongly featured.

The Welsh Tourist Board decided in its wisdom, to adopt a rating that was based primarily on the service an hotel gave. Five Star hotels in the Principality range from the Celtic Manor Resort (see an earlier Review)with its multiple golf courses, two swimming pools, 25 spa and treatment rooms, restaurants, conference areas etc down to the Fairyhill, with a meagre nine bedrooms. The personal touches the owners bring at Fairyhill are not just in the design, which they have done themselves, but in their service,the pleasure they take in their hotel, their food, and their knowledge of their wine list - a wine list many larger hotels would be delighted to be able to offer.

The bar has an enormous selection of brandies and whiskys, with its own log fire. Rollover to see the back fitting.

Set in its own 28 acres of grounds that are being sensitively regenerated from the wilderness that they had become, the hotel bedrooms have two attributes that are special - delightful views of the surrounding woodland and wildlife, and total tranquility apart from the occasional fast jet of the RAF flying low over the nearby seas.

In design terms they are homely rather than special, but this brings a special level of comfort when allied to the service. Certainly the warmth of the interiors, with their open fires is reflected in the welcome. Domesticity can be a source of strength as well as weakness, and here it is inclusive, creating a restful guest environment.

If there is a weakness it is in the bathrooms, where the local spring water supply gives low pressure although delightfully soft water. Bathroom design would have benefited from the addition of grabrails in the shower/baths for example. Again they are well lit, with lighting thoughfully placed to enhance functionality. The rooms are all large, and most are accessed from large landings and hallways shared with just one or two other rooms, helping ceate the feeling that each guest and guest room is special.

The main lounge has some strong 'designer touches' (as can be seen in the Quicktime panorama), and its comfortable chairs and sofas in front of the log fire provide an ideal retreat for reading on wild Welsh days.